Our second birding trip through Oman

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25 October – 23 November 2000

Ruud and Kitty Kampf

Schermerhorn, The Netherlands



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A map with our route

Over 300 photos of our trip as thumbnail

(opens in a new window)

Our first birding trip to Oman was back in 1995, see for a report on that trip on our homepage www.rekel.nl/Oman . The first trip we took the plane from Muscat to Salalah in the south and drove back north with a rental Toyota LandCruiser.

In 2000 it was time to go back again, but this time only to the northern part of the country. See for our route the map. We rented our LandCruiser (a 4.5 l with 225 HP) again from Toyota Rent A Car in Muscat (tracbest@gto.net.om). They gave us a very reasonable rate. The first night we stayed in a resthouse, during our trip we camped at the most wonderful places, in the middle of the desert, at beaches, in the mountains, etc. The last night we stayed in the Gulf hotel in Muscat to get accustomed to "normal" life again. When we returned our car, we got the comment "you have really used the car". The car and we had become quite dusty indeed.

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See for more information on birding in Oman and news from the Oman bird club their Internet site www.birdsoman.com

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Al Ansib Sewage treatment plant (25/10)

Directly after arrival we picked up our rental car at the airport we went to the Al Ansib Sewage treatment plant. That was not such a good idea after a couple of tiring days and a flight with not to much sleep. There were quite a few birds though, but it was hot. Hardly any shade, hot-hot. At least 20 Steppe Eagle, 3 Osprey, 1 Great Spotted Eagle, 5 species of Heron and 13 species of Wader.

Al Moosa Beach Resort (25/10)

We went early to the Al Moosa Beach resort to get some rest and a beauty sleep. Around the place some peaceful birding, for example: an Osprey, Slender-billed Gulls, a Kingfisher sitting on the mudflat and a Hume’s Wheatear.

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Coast Sohar(25 –26/10)

An early morning walk. Some of the birds: 25 Bar-tailed Godwit, Curlews and Whimbrels. We drove later on the day to the west. Did some shopping, stopped for a camel race in Saham. We camped north of Sohar near the new harbour. At night calling Owls (spec?), Grey Francolins, Purple Sunbirds. Many Crested Larks, Arabian Babbler, Black Finchlark. Isabelline Shrike, Great Grey Shrike, European Bee-eater. Quite a few waders (Lesser and Greater Sandplover, Sanderling, Curlew Sandpiper, etc.

Mangroves Shinas (26-27/10)

Later to Shinas, a mangrove area. Many Swallows, some Red-rumped swallows. The Clamorous Reedwarblers were singing very loud. Collared Kingfisher 1x. In the mangroves Squacco Herons (Indian Pond Heron?), Curlews, Whimbrels, Redshanks, Bar-tailed Godwits and Kingfishers.

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Along the coast to the UAR-border (27/10)

In the plantations not many birds (Indian Silverbill, House Crow, Mynah). On spots with fresh water always waders (Little Stint, Greenshank, Common Snipe)


Tawny Pipit

Tawny Pipit

Khwar Kalba (27/10)

On the border, not so interesting. On the beach a calling Pacific Golden Plover (very different call indeed).

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Sohar Sunfarms (28/10)

Many birds, however we missed the wagtails and pipits. Marsh Harrier (20), Pallid Harrier (>10, only first and second year birds), Montague Harrier (1), Greater Spotted Eagle (1), Booted Eagle (1), Long-legged Buzzard, Hobby, Kestrel (who is stronger? A Kestrel or a Hobby. Indeed a Kestrel, could steal the prey of a Hobby), Chestnut bellied Sandgrouse (several 100), Indian Roller (> 100), Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Gull billed Tern (17), Swallow (200), African Rock Martin (10s), etc.

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Left and above Steppe Harrier

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Montague Harrier

Indian Roller

Indian Roller

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Sociable Plover

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Red-wattled Plover
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Road nr. 8 through the mountains, direction Yanqui + several side roads (28-31/10)

Humes Wheatear, Red-tailed Wheatear (4X), singing, Great Grey Shrike (2X, Desert Lark (s subspecies?, dark (annae?) and light birds), Purple Sunbird + numerous several skulking Phylloscopes and Sylvias. A lot of lbb’s. At least once one of the phylloscopes was a Plain Leaf Warbler (a small, greyish, fast bird). Other species included Yellow-vented Bulbul, Common Redstart, Laughing Dove, African Rock Martin, Brown-necked Raven, Scrub Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and Lesser Desert Whitethroat . We could not find a common Whitethroat. It is not easy!

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Ibri to do shopping and have two of our tires changed, then Sant and Sint in Jabal Waal (31/10-1/11)

Some of the nice birds, included Purple Sunbird, Chiffchaff, Desert Lesser Whitetroat, Great Grey Shrike, Black Redstart (ssp. semirufus)

Sewage Treatment Plant near Ibri (1/11)

Little Stint (4), Swallows and White Wagtails

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North-eastern desert, Ibri to Al Aroos (1-2/11)

Not many birds around, impressive landscape. Some Wheatear spec., Desert Larks, Brown-necked Raven and Sandgrouse spec. Hoopoe Lark (1), Crested Lark, Laughing Dove

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Ybal, Dump (2/11)

Egyptian Vulture (150+), Brown-necked Raven (30)

Ybal, Camp (2/11)

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (10), Desert Wheatear (4), House Sparrow (20), Swallows (10s), White Wagtail, Black Redstart. And cans with beer in the shop (Laziza, made in Holland, 0%)

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Eastern desert to Hayma (2-3/11)

A pair of Little Owls in a BP-200 l drum along the road side. In this time of the year not many birds indeed, but an impressive landscape: Desert Lark, Hoopoe Lark and Brown-necked Raven

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Montasar (3-4/11)

Pochard (juv. male), Little Stint, Lesser Sandplover (4), Golden Eagle (1 ad.), Log-legged Buzzard, Kestrel (male), Sparrowawk (fem.), Crake (spec), Swallows, Sand Martin (1), Bush Warbler, Black Redstart, Blue Cheeked Bee-eater, Whit, Yellow, Citrine Wagtail, Long-billed Pipit, Waterpipit (ssp. Coutelli), Black-crowned Finch Lark, Isabelline Shrike (3).

One very annoying warbler: The size of an Icterine Warbler, Yellow shafts on the primary wing feathers, (still?) some yellow feathers on the breast, a rather prominent eye-streak. A key feature was the behaviour: it foraged on the ground, running from bush to bush!

Waited for the Sandgrouse on 4/11. It was a foggy morning, the first ones arrived at 9.00. Mainly Spotted, a few Crowned and a few Chestnut-bellied. A great sight

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A road from Montasar to the border (3/11)

This road leads to a wonderful sand dune area. Not many birds though, but nice species: Whoopoe Lark, Desert Wheatear and Brown-necked Raven

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Quitbit (4/11)

Grey Heron (1)

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European Nightjar

From the main road at Mughsin in the direction of the coast until Nimr (4-5/11)

European Roller, Hoopoe Lark (5x), Desert Wheatear (10x, here adult males, holding territories already?). Around our tent a pair of Brown-necked Raven were the only birds! In the morning thick fog again. It was a strange encounter to see a Nightjar in the middle of the desert. Is it a falcon, is it a skua? The bird was moulting, it had very short primaries. It pointed out to be a European Nightjar.

Around the water tank of Ar Runib (N 18.60 E 56.11) : Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (>100), Great Grey Shrike, Desert Wheatear, Black-crowned Finch Larks, Waterpipits (3)

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From Nimr to the coast through and along Whadi Ghadun (5-6/11)

The only Arabian Partridges of the trip around our tent spot at N 18.36 E 56.22. During an early morning walk zero birds, but again a splendid scenery. A beautiful wadi system, packed wit corals and shells.

Desert Lark (2), Isabelline Shrike (ssp. isabellinus), Long-billed Pipit, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Isabelline Wheatear and the "normal" Desert Wheatears, Hoopoe Larks and Brown-necked Raven.

Arabian Gazelle (3,1,1,1) and a very fast iguana spec

Great Grey Shrike

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Isabelline Shrike

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Khwar Ghawi (6-8/11)

A beautiful site, worth a longer stay. In total between 3.500 and 4.000 waders.

Flamingo (2000), Spoonbill (120), Western Reef Heron (100s), Great White and Grey Heron, Shellduck (3), Pintail (34), Garganay (10), Shoveler (2), Coot (1 dead), Marsh Harrier (3x), Osprey (>5), Crab Plover (250), Terek Sandpiper (many), Greenshank (10s), Spotted Redshank (5), Redshank (10s), Oystercatcher (50), Bar-tailed Godwit (100), Bar-tailed Godwit (4+4), Avocet (20), Lesser and Greater Sandplover , Grey Plover, Little Ringed Plovers, Curlew, Curlew Sandpiper (1000?), Dunlin, Little Stint, Broad-billed Sandpiper (some), Turnstone (6), Quail (1), Slender-billed Gull, Sooty Gull, Heron Gull, Caspian Tern (4), Gull-billed Tern (10s), Swift Tern, Lesser Crested Tern, Saunders Little Tern, Whiskered Tern, Common Tern, Swallow, Desert Wheatear, Richard Pipit, Crested Lark

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Wadi Dharf (8-9/11)

A wet night in Wadi Dharf, at 10.30 in the evening our tent flooded. The wadi was filling up (filling up fast: 100.000 m3/h, water level rising ca. 1 m/h during 2.5 hours), clear sky! Always be careful in wadis when there are dark clouds above the main land.

A lot of ducks (Wigeon, Garganay, Teal, Shoveler, Mallard).

Fortunately the Intermediate Heron walked besides a Great White Heron and a Western Reef Heron.

Black-necked Grebe, Flamingo. Spoonbill. Some waders: Black-winged Stilt, Sanderling, Little Stint, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Pacific Golden Plovers (40), Ruff, Curlew, Greenshank. Besides the normal terns: Caspian Tern (30)

It showed again that big eagles are not so easy, We found a very light coloured eagle at a distance. To light for a Steppe. A Tawny is rare up here, it pointed out to be an Imperial Eagle. Great Spotted Eagle, Marsh Harrier, Steppe Harrier, Osprey and Kestrel. A big falcon spec.

On the grassy spots, before the water came in hundreds of pipits and wagtails: Red-throated, Tree, Water, Richards Pipit and Yellow, Citrine, Grey and White Wagtails.

Early in the morning 100s of Masked Boobies

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Ras Madrakah (9-10/11)

On the way several Hoopoe Larks. A seawatch from the Ras (11.00-12.00: hardly any birds).

We spend the day beachcombing and snorkelling. Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphin (10, incl. "babies" + 15)

Osprey, Masked Booby (4), Short-toed Lark.

On the beach a dolphin or toothed whale, see link, several jumping Stingrays, Ibex (6) Capra Ibex Nubiana!!

In the village many Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Indian Roller.

The beaches contained quite a few birds: Turnstone (60!), Redshanks, Oystercatcher, Herons, Spotted Sandpiper, etc. Also a Spotted Flycatcher

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From Ras Madrakah to Duqm along the coast (10/11)

Many Desert Wheatears, some Tree pipits, Long-billed Pipits, Phylloscope specs., Some Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. On the beach of Ash Shuayr the "normal stuff" + Marsh Harrier (male, the first male adult male up to know! Most are juvenile or female birds). Osprey (1)

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Duqm (10-12/11)

At 11/11 before sunset a very red moon rose spectacular after a very clear night .It is wise to rise early at the Duqm flat because of the gathering of gulls and terns at the flats. In 1995 we counted about 60.000! Now it was less and very difficult to count (5.000 – 10.000). Most leave well before sunrise (at 5.45 first terns, at 5.50 first gulls, the main stream of gulls started at 6.10. Most terns left at 6.15 after being alarmed by a Marsh Harrier). The number of terns was relatively high, most Sandwich and Swift Terns. Great Blackheaded Gulls were still absent, they arrive later in the season. At 12/11 they left low, close to the shore. At 13/11 they left gaining height in a big spiral before disappearing on the ocean.

The bigger white headed gulls are a "disaster". There are yellow and pink legs, light, medium and dark mantles and the amount of white varies at the wing tips (from hardly any white until more white then the western European Larus Argentatus. It seems that any combination is possible. At least one of the Gulls was a Baltic Gull (small, very dark mantle, hardly any white on the wing tips). The Slender-billed Gulls left flying low.

During a long walk (and crawl) on the flats I could photograph some nice waders (also Broad-billed Sandpiper very close) at uncoming tide. I counted 15 Ospreys (total 20?), Crab Plover (20) and Grey Heron (100s), Little Egret (1).

In the "Rock Garden" a Ruppels Fox (Vulpes rupelli) ??? Big ears. Very curious, big and long ears

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Duqm, Al Jaiz, Jaalluuni, Wadi Dhurf, Duqm (12-13/11)

In Al Ajaiz, near the water tanks: Crowned Sandgrouse (1, must be much more at other hours of the day), Red-throated Pipit (1), Lark (spec). On our way to Jaalluuni: Arabian Gazelle (1), Oryx Gazelle(2) and Golden Eagle (first or second year bird).

Around the Oryx centre: Crowned Sandgrouse and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (100s), Isabelline Shrike (without tail), Laughing Dove, Spotted Flycatcher, White wagtail. Around the centre many Oryx Gazelle, interested in the female in the centre. Also a group of Arabian Gazelle.

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On our way back to the coast trough Wadi Dhurf: Cream-coloured Courser (2x), Steppe Eagle, Desert Lark, numerous Black-Crowned Finch Lark, Long-billed Pipit and several Sandgrouse spec
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Coast near As Salituiyat (13-14/11)

In and around a small pond the "normal mix"; Flamingo, Grey Heron, Shoveller, Teal and Mallard, Black-tailed Godwit (2), Spotted Redshank (2), Redshank (4), Dunlin, Coot, Sanderling, White wagtail, Desert and Isabelline Wheatear, Crested Lark. But also a Lesser Grey Shrike, loud singing on top of a bush!

On the beach we found a Shearwater, which we identified as a Persian Shearwater. We have photographed and measured the bird. Since then it is a puzzle , link>

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Bar al Hikman, close to the ferry harbour of Sannah (14-15/11)

A great site for waders! Same species as around Duqm, but much higher number of Bar-tailed Godwits (1000s) and Crab Plovers. During photographing small waders I got a Long-toed Stint on very close range (strikes on the head ( first giving an impression of a Broad-billed, much clearer then Little Stint), the yellowish legs and brown upperparts gave the impression of an adult Temminck, the tail had Grey flags). I was to amazed to take a picture. Again several Ospreys and Marsh Harrier. Close to the jetty a Starling (adult), a Richards Pipit, a Swallow and a small dashing bird of prey, probably a Merlin…. ? (Vagrant, 4 records…). The bird disappeared quickly. Sure?, no, only 90 %. During the trip to Masirah on 15/11 not many birds

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Masirah (15-17/11)

During the trip to the southern point of Masirah (Ras abu Rasas): Ospreys, Cream-coloured Courser (1) and Red-backed Shrike (juv.). On the south point we found a strange, very light Skua. It must have been an adult bird, it was moulting heavily, but had a protruding tail. After many hesitations I dare to call it an Arctic Skua. On the ocean a Persian Shearwater close by, Arctic Skua (3), Great Skua spec (not to far away, sitting on a buoy. A rather dark body, the primaries were rather light): South Polar Skua??? On the beach a carcass of a Cory’s Shearwater .

Just a general warning: be careful when snorkelling close Ras abu Ras!!

The number of birds on the island was rather low, hardly any small migrants. Egyptian Vulture (1).

The number of Ospreys on the island is incredible. Must be close to 100. The east coast had 1 Osprey per km on an average. There is so much fish they hardly have to go out for fishing, we observed on who caught a fish in a couple of minutes before sunrise. It was hardly light.

On 17th on the way back a Pommarine Skua

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Bar al Hikman, close to the ferry harbour of Sannah (17-19/11)

An estimate of waders close to the jetty of Sannah: Crab Plover (1000-1500), Bar-tailed Godwit (100s), Dunlin (1000s), Little Stint (many), Curlew Sandpiper, Sanderling (feeding on the mudflats), Broad-billed Sandpiper (a few), Great Knot (6 + 1), Greenshank (some), Marsh Sandpiper (100s), Terek Sandpiper (many, very widespread), Oystercatcher (10s), Ringed Plover (1) plus the "normal stuff).

On the flats the bones of a False Killerwhale

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From Sannah north along the coast to the Wahibi Sands (19/11)

Fifteen species on a field used to dry fish north of Ras al Ruways: Bimaculated Lark (12), Starling (1, in de shadow of a pole. An adult, complete moulted into fresh winter plumage. Sweating),

A nice choice of waders: Sanderling, Dunlin, Broad-billed Sandpiper (1), Pacific Golden Plover, Greater and Lesser Sandplover, Turnstone. Plus Bluethroat, White and Yellow Wagtail, Richard, Tawny and Tree Pipit.

Other species along the coast Cormorants, Golden Plovers, Black-winged Stilt and unbelievable numbers of Gulls. The gulls were very keen on following the behaviour of the fishermen. When they brought fish ashore they came with the hundreds/thousands

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The Woodlands of the Wahibi Sands (19-20/11)

We were happy to obtain petrol in Qurun (fuel consumption 71 l on 236 km), it gave us the opportunity to drive through the sands in the direction of Jallaan Bani Bu Ali.

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O_1312.jpg (3583 bytes) Birding around our camping spot at N 21.52 E 59.27: Golden Eagle, Spotted Thicknee (2), Desert Whitethroat (the call is more or less like a Blue Tit), Desert Wheatear, Arabian Babbler, Common Redstart, Little Green Bee-eater (5) and Brown-necked Raven.

The trip through the Woodlands is wonderful, very surprising. A lot of trees indeed. Birds: Orphan Warbler, Desert Whitethroat, Indian Roller, Great Grey Shrike (ssp. Pallidostris), Desert and Isabelline Wheatear, Laughing Dove.

The wadi in Jallaan Bani Bu Ali was carrying water: Greenshanks, Redshank, Spotted Redshank, Common Sandpiper, Gull-billed Tern (1), Egyptian Vulture, Kestrel, Little Green Bee-eater and Graceful Prinia

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Ras al Had, Ras al Junayz, Ras al Khabbah (20-21/11)

We have spent the night at the camping to see the Green Turtles. A wonderful event indeed. At 21/11 at 5 o’clock sharp back on the beach. It was great to see the egg laying and the young baby turtles emerging from the sand.

On the beach the remains of a Pink-footed Shearwater.

On 20/11 a couple of hours sea- watch from Ras al Khabbah. Just some terns and gulls, no visible migration: Cormorant, Socotra Cormorant. Too late in the season. Osprey (1) and a Sooty falcon !! (juvenile)

At Khwar Al Hajar Crab Plover (2)

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Jabal Khadar east of Sur and desert south of Minitrib (21-23/11)

Road to Shuffi: Hume’s Wheatear, Egyptian Vulture, Sunbird spec. Near and in Addah quite a few : Pale Rock Sparrow, Hume’s Wheatear Little Bee-eater and Indian Roller. Also a singing Orphean Warbler, a Chiffchaff and other rather frustrating lbb’s in the gardens.

We spent the last night in the desert before returning to Muscat south of Minitrib

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Muscat (23/11)

The dump: quite a few Steppe Eagles, Great Spotted Eagle (1), Egyptian Vultures and a Lappet-faced Vulture

to our Oman index page

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Šall fotos, Ruud and Kitty Kampf, Schermerhorn, The Netherlands


Appendix 1:

"Birdwatching guide of Oman"

by Hanne & Jens Eriksen and Panada & Dave E. Sargeant.

During our visits to Oman in February/March 1995 and October/November 2000 we have got very enthusiastic about the birding in the country. Oman must be the most friendly and pleasant country in the Arabic part of the world. In 1995 there was hardly any information on birding sites, only some copies with directions from Jens Eriksen. During our visit last year we learned again that Oman is a wonderful birding country, but developing very fast. The population is growing rather fast, expending cities and villages, many new roads. There fore the work of the Eriksens and Sargeants so important.

The first impression of the Birdwatching guide of Oman is: "what a colourful book, beautiful pictures and colourful maps". The book starts with useful instructions about travelling to and in Oman, when to go, useful information on lodging, etc. The main part of the book are the site descriptions with colourful maps. Very useful! I learned that we have missed some good spots. The books ends with a site species list and a short description per species. More extensive information on the over 460 species of birds in Oman can be found in the Oman Bird List (The official list of the birds of the Sultanate of Oman), by Jens Eriksen and Dave E. Sargeant.

The Birdwatching Guide of Oman will not only be a perfect guide for foreign birders in Oman but will also be very important for nature preservation in Oman. Fortunately a translation in Arabic is already under progress.
The price: about Euro 30 (US $ 30). Not cheap indeed, but not bad for such a "deluxe" book.

More information about birding in Oman and the described books can be found on www.birdsoman.com .

 Appendix 2: The weather during the trip








sun, hot, little wind




sun, hot, little wind




sun, sea wind, 4B




at first clouds, later dry heat, little wind




at first clouds, later dry heat, little wind




at first clouds, later dry heat, little wind




sun, later dry heat, little wind




sun, hot dry wind




sun, in the morning wind, no wind, evening windy again




sun, warm wind




mist!, 50 % clear, wind until B5




mist!, 50 % clear, wind until B5




3/4 clouded, rain to the north of us




Sun, 1/2 clouded, wind until B5




sun, inland dark clouds




sun, 1/8 clouded, until 4B wind




sun, inland clouds




sun, deco-clouds, SE B4-5




sun, deco-clouds, SE B4-5




sun, nearly clear sky




sun, quite windy




sun, decoclouds, NE, 4B wind




sun, decoclouds, NE, 5B wind




sun, decoclouds, NE, 5B wind




sun, NO, 6B wind




sun, NO, 5- 6B wind




sun, little wind!!




sun, little wind!!




sun, decoclouds, in the evening windy




1/2 clear